By Alfrique O. Mwana
Marsabit Town, nestled at the base of Mount Marsabit and surrounded by ancient volcanoes, is brimming with natural beauty and vibrant cultures. It might be a small town, but its sights and views are something to behold. Unlike many towns in Kenya’s northern dry lands, Marsabit is often cool, even when the sun shines brightly. A gentle, cool breeze from the hills softens the sun’s warmth, making it pleasant most of the year. The mornings are generally cold as wind from the mountains blows through the land. The entire town is occasionally flooded with mist—you can barely see three metres ahead. The nights are longer because the city goes to bed at 7 pm. Businesses close as early as 6 pm, and by 7 pm, most streets are empty except for a few eating joints and bars. By 9 pm, the town is entirely deserted; only boda boda (motorbike) riders will be seen carrying a few passengers.
Marsabit’s most striking feature is Mount Marsabit itself. This isn’t just any mountain; it’s a lush, green volcano that rises dramatically from the dry lands around it. Often shrouded in mist, this mountain holds a particular mystery. It’s home to the Marsabit National Park, famous for its old crater lakes and magnificent elephants with huge tusks, like the legendary Ahmed, once known as the “King of Marsabit.” Indeed, the mountain and its surrounding hills are like a lifeline for the town, trapping moisture that brings life to Marsabit; without them, the city would be a desert. Within the national park, Lake Paradise is a haven for all sorts of animals, including leopards, buffalo, and more elephants. Furthermore, the rich plant life from the forest stretches for miles down towards the town, adding to its incredible beauty.
Beyond its natural allure, Marsabit is a true melting pot of cultures. Pastoralist communities have moved through these lands for centuries, following the rhythm of the rains. Their lives are shaped by constant movement and stories passed down through generations. While there have been conflicts over scarce resources, there’s also a strong history of working together and living side-by-side. Even with some internal divisions, the people of Marsabit see their diversity as a great strength. You can find a treasure trove of traditional crafts at the Marsabit Cultural Centre. From intricately carved wooden headrests to beautiful beadwork and leather tools used long ago, these items offer a glimpse into the area’s rich cultural heritage.
Even more fascinating is how Marsabit’s younger generation, often called Gen Z, is changing the story. With mobile phones and internet access, they’re bridging the gap between old traditions and new global trends. Consequently, it’s not uncommon to see them performing popular TikTok dances in various spots around Marsabit town, blending the ancient with the modern.
Marsabit is truly a cosmopolitan town, attracting people from all over who come for business or work. You’ll see the calm and dignified Borana men and women, the vibrant Rendille women adorned in colorful beads and silver necklaces, Gabra herders walking with camels, and young Samburu boys in bright, flowing shukas. This town is a magical blend of Kenya’s northern tribes. The women often wear long, graceful deras, with hijabs gently framing their oval faces; this dress style is more about culture than religion. Even though they speak different languages and follow distinct customs, they live together with a grace that challenges common ideas about northern Kenya.
Borana and Gabra women are gorgeous, possessing a dignified presence and an elegant simplicity in carrying themselves. They are typically tall or medium height, with strong, lean bodies shaped by their pastoral lives. Their skin tones range from warm browns to deep, rich ebony, glowing with a natural strength under the northern sun. Moreover, their faces are often finely sculpted, with high cheekbones, almond-shaped eyes, and delicate noses. Their eyes are remarkably expressive—calm, observant, and steady.
Rendille women are equally captivating in their appearance and demeanour. With tall, slender figures honed by their pastoral lifestyle, they move gracefully, their posture upright and purposeful. High cheekbones, almond-shaped eyes, and delicately sculpted noses give their faces a regal and balanced look. Their stretched earlobes, adorned with beaded loops and bold jewellery, complete their unique style, making each woman a living example of their rich artistic and cultural identity.
In Marsabit, women are far more than just caregivers; they are builders, educators, negotiators, and guardians of culture. Most businesses, big or small, are run mainly by women. Miraa and Mogoga are major cash crops in Marsabit, consumed by many residents and visitors. Interestingly, these products are primarily sold by women; you’ll often find them positioned in various spots, carrying paper bags full of miraa and selling to their mostly male customers.
Hospitality is deeply valued in Marsabit. However, it’s said that ancient Marsabit was even more welcoming than it is today. Modern residents have been influenced by Western culture, and consequently, there’s a greater focus on making money at every chance. In the past, visitors would be offered a seat and a cup of tea or “chai ya tangawizi,” even before their name was known. But it’s not all lost; warmth and generosity still shine through.
The heart of the town beats loudest on market days, which are Sundays and Thursdays. With babies tied securely to their backs, women confidently stride through rows of fresh tomatoes, green grams, and colourful piles of lesos (traditional cloths). The air is filled with the inviting smells of incense, roasted maize, and the occasional delicious aroma of goat meat sizzling over an open flame. Traders converse in a mix of Swahili, Borana, and broken English. Bargaining is lively but always respectful, often ending in laughter and shared blessings.
From beautifully handcrafted baskets to golden honey collected from acacia trees, Marsabit’s marketplace is both a vital economic hub and a living cultural museum. Each item tells a story: of skill, family history, and deep connection to the land. People travel from far-flung areas around Marsabit to buy goods for their homes or sell them back in their villages, making the market a true regional centre.
Smooth, tarmacked roads gracefully wind through Marsabit Town like black ribbons gently laid over the reddish-brown earth. They weave through the busy market, quiet homes, and open fields. The smooth asphalt curves around clusters of shops, roadside stalls, and government buildings in the town centre, occasionally narrowing into simpler lanes that disappear into neighbourhoods. Once impassable during rainy seasons, these roads now connect villages to opportunities. They bring schoolchildren, traders, and travellers closer to the heart of Marsabit, thereby linking communities that were long separated by distance and time.
With the completion of the tarmacked Nairobi-Marsabit-Moyale highway, the town has undergone a subtle but significant transformation. New businesses, banks, and supermarkets have opened their doors. The movement of goods and people has become much easier as the transport sector continues to attract investors. This highway is slowly turning Marsabit into a tourist town. People, both local and foreigners, flock to Marsabit to marvel at her beauty and to meet her people. However, people living in the more remote, desert regions still face challenges with travel due to poor roads and limited transportation.
Religion in Marsabit is woven gently into daily life. The main religious communities are Christians and Muslims. Contrary to some popular beliefs, Marsabit has more Christians, with Catholics as the majority. The mosque’s call to prayer and the chiming bells of the Catholic church create a peaceful blend in the air, a testament to the town’s religious harmony and tolerance. Here, faith is less about division and more about shared moral values. For instance, during Ramadan, Christians often bring water and dates to their Muslim neighbours at sunset. And during Easter, Muslim friends frequently join in community meals, showcasing a beautiful spirit of togetherness.
In Marsabit, young people, who once had to move south to find work, are now exploring entrepreneurship in their hometown. But even with all these changes, Marsabit hasn’t lost its unique spirit. The market days are still eagerly anticipated, serving as a bridge between the past and the present—the old and the new walk side-by-side here. Boda bodas (motorcycle taxis) have replaced donkeys for local transport. Additionally, boreholes have been dug to supply water to residents, though occasionally you’ll still see people carrying jerrycans to fetch water. Technology has improved, connecting more people with the broader world. Unlike before, girls are often seen wearing jeans, a sign of changing social norms. Literacy levels have increased, although there’s still much more that can be done to further education.
Marsabit is a town that beautifully balances tradition with progress. Using public vehicles, it’s an 8-hour drive from Nairobi. In a private car, the journey can take six hours. Ancient customs thrive alongside modern advancements, all nestled in a landscape of remarkable natural beauty.
The writer is a communication strategist
